Before we start I’d like to refer to the previous post for all the information for the pattern.
I’ll be adding the colours I’ve used for every round, but that’s just in case you want to make the same colour combination as I did. Feel free to use your own colours!
To start with, you’ll make a MR (colour A)
Do that by holding the end of your yarn between your thumb and your index finger. Wrap the yarn twice around 2 fingers, making sure it forms an X on top of your fingers. Take your hook and put it (coming from below) through the centre of the loops. Grab the loop in front of the hook (the one coming from the ball) and pull it from underneath the loop at the back of the hook.
Rnd1 (colour A)
ch 4 this counts as your first tr and ch 1, (tr, ch 1) x 11 FO with an invisible chain.
Do this by cutting your yarn and pull it through the stitch and darn it to a needle. Now you want to make a false stitch on top of the first stitch you made. Do this by putting the needle under both loops of the second stitch and then put it back through the middle of the v from the last stitch you made.
Rnd 2 (colour B)
(Puff, ch 2) in every ch sp FO with inv ch
Puff stitch: YO, insert hook in stitch and pull up a loop. Do this 4 times. (you should have 9 loops on your hook) YO and pull through all 9 loops, ch 1. (this ch is part of the stitch and does not count as a stitch of its own)
Rnd 3 (colour C)
(pop, ch 1, pop, ch 1) in every ch sp (here the ch 1 does count as a stitch) FO with inv ch
After this part your work can curl up a bit, this will sort itself out later on.
Popcorn: make 5 dc in the same stitch, drop the loop from your hook, insert your hook from front to back in the first dc, grab the dropped loop with your hook and pull it through the stitch.
Rnd 4 (colour B)
Make this round in the same colour as rnd 2
fptr around the puff from rnd 2 (make sure that with the last pull through, you grab the ch 1 from previous rnd to secure the stitch), ch 4. Repeat until end, FO with inv ch
A fptr is a tr made around a stitch. Do this by YO twice, insert your hook around the stitch from the front of your work to the back and to the front again. So the stitch you will be crocheting around will be sitting in front of your hook. Now just finish off your tr.
Rnd 5 (colour D)
(hdc, 5 dc, hdc) in every ch sp, fpsc around every fptr, FO with inv ch
Rnd 6 (colour A)
bpsc around hdc and 3 dc, pic2, bpsc around 2 dc and hdc, fpsc around fpsc of previous rnd. Repeat until end FO with inv ch
bpsc is the same as a front post but this time you insert your hook around the stitch from the back of your work to the front and to the back again. The stitch you’ll be crocheting around will be sitting at the back of your hook.
pic2: chain 2 and slip stitch en the 2 loops at the bottom of the chain.
Rnd 7 (colour E)
This rnd is a bit tricky. You have to make a tr inbetween the 2 pop made in the same ch from rnd 3. Do this by folding the petals to the front and crochet at the back of your work.
(tr, ch 5) until end, sl st in the first stitch and do not cut your yarn.
Rnd 8 (colour E)
In every ch sp (sc, hdc, 2dc, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc) FO with inv ch.
Rnd 9 (coulour F)
bpsc around fptr from rnd 7, ch 4. Repeat until end, sl st in the first stitch and do not cut yarn.
Rnd 10 (coulor F)
In every ch sp (hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc), fpsc until end FO with inv ch.
Rnd 11 (colour G)
In this round we’ll be crocheting 2 rnds together. You can use stitch markers if you’re not sure in what stitch to crochet.
Make a bpsc around any hdc after a fpsc, bpsc around the next 3 stitches, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tr of rnd 8 and 9 together, bpsc around the next 4 stitches, sc in the pic2 from rnd 6 and fpsc from rnd 10. (When you insert your hook in the pic2, make sure you have 2 loops on your hook. That will make it sturdy)
bpsc around 4 stitches, (sc, ch 2, sc) in tr of rnd 8 and 9, bpsc around the next 4 stitches, sc in the pic2 and fpsc from rnd 10, repeat until end, FO with a inv ch.
Rnd 12 (colour B)
Start in any ch 2 sp.
(2dcCl, ch 1, 2dcCl, ch1, 2dcCl), ch 4. until end, FO with inv ch
2dcCl: YO, insert around ch 2, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert around ch 2 again, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 3 loops.
Rnd 13 (colour C)
Start in the first cluster of any 3 cluster group.
(fpsc around Cl, sc in ch 1) x2, fpsc around 3rd Cl, ch 1
In ch sp (2dcCl, ch 1) x 2, 2trCl, ch 1, (2dcCl, ch 1) x2 until end, FO with inv ch.
rnd 14 (colour A)
In this round we’ll be working around and inbetween the clusters and we’ll be skipping the fpsc an sc.
Start in any ch1 sp before the cluster.
(hdc, fphdc) x5, hdc in the last ch1 sp, ch 3. until end, FO with inv ch.
Rnd 15 (colour E)
Start in the 1st hdc after a ch 3.(This one can be a bit tricky to find)
sc in the next 5 stitches, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the 6st stitch (that’s thr fpdc around the 2trCl), sc in the next 5 stitches, pop in the 3rd stitch from rnd 13 ( that’s the fpsc around the middle CL)
making sure the ch 3 is on the back of the pop.
5 sc, (sc, ch 2, sc), 5 sc, pop. until end, FO with inv ch.
Rnd 16 (colour D)
In this round we’re going to make puff stitches in every ch 3 sp from round 14 and in every ch sp from the previous rnd.
You can start wherever you like and please remember that the ch 1 to close the puff does not count as a stitch.
(puff, ch 2, puff, ch 2) in every ch sp. FO with inv ch.
Rnd 17 (colour G)
Start in any ch sp and make 1 dc, then meke a dc3tg before, around and after the puff.
(dc, dc3tog) until end, FO with inv ch.
dc3tog: YO, insert hook around ch sp befor the puff, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert around puff, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert around ch sp after puff, pull up loop, YO; pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through all 4 remaining loops.
Rnd 18 (colour F)
(hdc, ch 1) in every stitch until end, FO with inv ch.
Rnd 19 (colour B)
(sc, ch2, sc)in every ch cp until end, FO with inv ch.
And you’re done!!!
I hope you enjoyed making this mandala.
I would love to see them, so please let me @mycroshed and use #earlyspringmandala and #mycroched in your pictures if you post them on social media.
Also, if something isn’t clear or you find a mistake, don’t hesitate to let me know.
This is a free pattern so please do not sell it! You can however sell your finished mandala.